Breathtaking Beauty along the Italian Riviera

When you visit the southern end of the Italian Riviera, you’ll find Le Cinque Terre tucked in between a rugged coastline. The views found hiking from town to town stop you dead in your tracks. Awestruck landscape and the beauty of the Ligurian Sea.

Although similar to the Amalfi Coast in many ways, there is a far more raw and rustic vibe here. Peeling paint from pastel covered buildings. Tiny harbors filled with small, wooden boats. Vineyards on slopes that nearly fall off of cliffs.

The whole experience transports you into another time and another way of life.

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The first time I visited Le Cinque Terre (also known as Italy’s fabulous five) was over 15 years ago. The beauty was mesmerizing back then just as it was when I was there earlier this year. Things have changed over the years. The area is far more developed than it used to be. However, you can still find glimpses of the old world there.

Men still set out each morning in their fishing boats onto the sea to earn a living. That local catch is brought in, prepared, and plated at the local restaurant each evening.

I highly recommend visiting the Cinque Terre. If you can go in the off season, there will be less tourists. You will enjoy a better climate for hiking. Plus, there will be more great views to have all for yourself.

Don’t rush. Lean into the pace of what was the old world fishing villages. You’ll discover hills painstakingly cultivated to produce beautiful lemons, oranges, grapes, and olives.

Wild Basilico in Liguria

You’ll also find basil growing wild along the terraced cliffs of the Cinque Terre. In fact, it’s said that the best basil in the world grows in the area. You can walk into any one of the cozy, little restaurants among the five villages and you will be sure to find locally made pesto on the menu.

I had an amazing pesto in the village of Corniglia when I was in Italy this spring. We ate at Osteria A Cantina De Mananan. It’s a typical Ligurian osteria in the heart of the village. The atmosphere feels like a small tavern. It's set in an old wine cellar complete with stone walls, a blackboard menu, old photos, and unique artwork on the walls.

The antipasto misto mare was some of the best seafood ever. A mix of anchovies prepared in various ways. Soaked in lemon juice. Smoked. Spicy. So simple, and yet, so delicious. I also sampled savory octopus with peas and a smoked marlin that tasted like a prosciutto version of fish. Unforgettable.

The exquisite, fresh pesto I ate was paired with testaroli, known as the most antique dried pasta in the world. It comes from the regions of Liguria, Emilia Romagna, and Toscana. I would describe it as a cross between a crepe (or a pancake) and pasta. The spongy quality of this ancient pasta absorbs the pesto sauce allowing you to taste more of the flavor of that famous Genovese basil in every bite.

Where to Stay in the Cinque Terre

We chose to stay in Corniglia because it’s less touristy and also more economic to stay here. It holds all the classic marks of any Cinque Terre village. Multicolored buildings, views of the cerulean blue sea, and narrow alleys paved with ancient stones.

I truly enjoyed the quaintness of this charming village. It was a nice change compared to where we’ve stayed in the past. In ways, it felt like stepping back into a piece of history held fast by time.

However, you really can’t make a wrong choice when choosing a village to stay in! Each one holds its own beauty and unique character. No matter which village you choose, you’ll feel like one of the characters in the film Luca.

When staying in the Cinque Terre, most people like to hike from village to village. However, if you don't have time to do that, the hike from Corniglia down into Vernazza is gorgeous. It's an easy hike you can do in about an hour and a half. Kids can even manage.

There is a wonderful bar you can stop in for a break, Bar il Gabbiano. They have the most amazing views of the sea, looking back towards Corniglia. You can catch the view from their windows or sit out on the terrace. Order a fresh-squeezed citrus or orange spremuta. You'll have plenty of time to go slow and make it to Vernazza for a nice lunch, a gelato, and some afternoon shopping. You can easily take the train back to Corniglia for the evening.

Garden Basil

I love traveling. Especially to Italy. But, it is good to be back at home in my own little garden.

I love this time of year nell'orto. Walking on top of the crunch of pea gravel. Watching the sunlight of the afternoon as it dances between the leaves reaching their way towards the sun. My basket is in hand, ready to gather the harvest to be enjoyed and savored at the table.

I have already pulled a few onions. Garlic is nearly ready. The squash is blooming. Tomatoes and peppers are coming on. And the blackberries are beginning to turn in color.

This year has had rather mild temperatures so far—and the basil is absolutely loving it!

With that said, it means that homemade pesto is on the menu. No pesto tastes like homemade pesto made with fresh basil from the garden. Do you like to make your own pesto?

Pesto with a Pistachio Twist

I love a good pesto. But, when I make it, I prefer to make it with pistachios rather than using the traditional pine nuts.

Yes, I’ve told you how much I love recipes that use pistachios. If you haven’t made my Pistachio Brownie Recipe yet, you should. The brownies are amazingly delicious and always impress.

Now, back to pesto. It is really simple to make. You can even make it in large batches and freeze it. It will keep in the fridge for about a week as well.

If you choose to make it in larger batches, you can pour the pesto sauce into small, recycled jars and give as adorable, tasty gifts. I love showing some hospitality in this way by giving homemade gifts.

With pesto, it’s all about the ingredients. For this recipe, the pistachio is the star. Keep it simple and choose quality. Let each flavor come to life.

Buon Appetito!

xx Sommer

P.S. If you like the recipe, please let me know and as always, passing the word is always helpful and much appreciated!